Liepaja, "The city where the wind is born"

Liepaja from the top of  the
Lutheran cathedral 

Next stop Sweden

 

It was the third time Valerie and I have visited Liepaja, which is the third largest city in Latvia and known as "The city where the wind is born" it is the most westerly city as well. This time we would be going with the teachers from school which always makes for an interesting day.

Having checked the weather forecast and found  it would be "sunny with some clouds" we both took coats which stayed on the bus as it turned out to be a lovely september day, not hot, not cold, just very pleasant.
It was just getting light as we set off at 7am as Liepaja is 239 km from Stelpe and settled in for a good 3 hour coach trip and only stopping once for a comfort break,we found ourselves rolling into the outskirts of the city at just after 10.

The sun was out the air crisp, what delight's would
Liepaja hold for us today??

The first activity of the day was to be a trip around the old town complete with tour guide. Sure enough there she was waiting for us as we all got off the coach, Having said a few introductory words she lead us off at what you could call a brisk pace taking in places of interest  one of which was a gift shop, where one or two things were bought,

Four wheels on my Lada, but no steering wheel
this one's not going far!!

Under renovation one of the city's older properties.

Flowers always brighten the day, one of the
market traders stalls.

St Anna's Lutheran church

another place of interest was the town market , unfortunately we were through it like a dose of salts  so never got to see  very much. Then  back to  our coach, which then took us to a very nice park where there was a fascinating "tree"

The tree of ghosts, made from 4000 steel rods in memory of
the rock band "Livi" One can sit and listen to some of their
songs

Liepaja's long sandy beach where it is still possible to find
pieces of amber along the waters edge. 

 then off to a  pathway that  led down onto the beach where we enjoyed a lovely stroll before taking a look at a monument erected in memory of a US military airplane which was shot down in 1950 during the cold war years.  After a tour of narrow streets we arrived outside of the cafe where we would have dinner alfresco in the back courtyard, we sat and enjoyed the sunshine while we waited for dinner  to be served.









Lunch over it was back on the coach round a few more narrow streets where we would visit a very interesting house in which there were several artisans working and talking about their particular craft.Liepajas Amatnieku nams (Liepaja craft house)

Craft house,

 In the entrance the first thing you see is a large wooden machine, that has to be a printing press I told Valerie how wrong could I be!! You learn something new every day.

Well it does look a bit like a printing press.

The house was set up to enable traditional crafts to continue, weaving, (both material and willow) ceramics, leather work and many more were being demonstrated, we watched fascinated as new items were produced, I could have stayed much longer but we had an appointment to keep in the cities Lutheran cathedral.

Traditional costumes

Beautiful quilts

Felt pictures

This lady made baskets from willow set on natural wooden
bases of all shapes and sizes. 

 At one time it must have been a splendid sight, built in 1742-58 it has the world's largest mechanical organ which has not been reconstructed.
 we were to be given an informal organ recital after we had looked round the inside of the church, [sorry no photo's allowed],we , well some of us climbed the 55 meter tower which was an adventure in it's self,  but well worth the effort as there were  splendid views over the city. we then had to get down the stairs,  mmm !!!, quite a slow and careful job ,, we then got settled into the not too comfortable pews then our recital began, to hear such a splendid instrument put through it's paces was an amazing experience from the highest to the lowest notes which vibrated throughout the building one could feel the power produced by the organist who we were able to visit at the organ console, some of our party were bold enough even to try playing a few notes. I was content to leave it to the master.

This was nothing!!  there was more to come.
Onwards and upwards,it will be worth it
when we get to the top.

A pause for breath as I take a look at the clock 

So this is how they drive the four faces of the clock.

After the church  the next "port of call", was Karosta (war port) which now joins Liepaja  this was once home to the Soviet's major naval base in the baltic region and we drove through what once was the home to up to 30,000 naval personnel and their  families one could only guess at what life was like for Latvian families who lived anywhere near by and reflect upon the sheltered upbringing those of my generation had.

An easy stroll before the journey home

The beach at Karosta, it seemed a little strange as in the
trees that backed the beach were the remains of what
was once a huge navel base.

 Our last stop was a car park which was the start of the northern breakwater which is 1800 meters long and while some of our party were prepared to walk out to the end Valerie and I decided we had had enough exercise for the day and stayed close to the coach,  enjoying the view of the beach, sun and sea,   and the a little stroll along the breakwater, but not too far .










Oh yes the printing press turned out to be a communal laundry press most large villages had one somewhere, ladies would bring sheets, blankets and towels  to press, and gossip no doubt. How wrong can you be!!

Go on Valerie put you back into it!!!

A busy start to September.

September has started with a great flourish of activity for us starting on the 1st with "First school day"
 Now I don't remember my first day at school, apart from my mum leaving me at the school gates.
But I do know it was  quite unlike children's first day here.

The start to the first day of school

Nine o'clock found us sitting in the school hall waiting for the bell to ring and right on time off it went.

All ready to go.

What have we got in here.

No ones to old to be in the kindergarten class.

The first class with their teacher.

  "First school day"  is just what it says, the first day of the new school year, and here in Stelpe  as in schools all over Latvia
 is a cause for great celebration, it is the day new pupils are
welcomed into school.  The eldest students bring the youngest, with their teacher into the school  hall and introduce them to the assembled parents ,grandparents ,students and friends.The new children are given a small gift of pencils  or crayons. The school principal takes time to thank all of her staff from the school gardener to the nurse who comes and does what school nurses do, a great many flowers are given and received with teachers collecting great armfuls from their students. It is a wonderful time with no one being left out.

Gifts and flowers waiting to be given.

As school settled into it's routine, the 2nd of September found us heading for Riga Airport to meet old friends from "Con Brio" (a choir I used to sing with) who were flying over to perform two concerts one here in Stelpe and another in Valle, small village close by.  Right on time the choir emerged from the arrivals hall and great excitement filled the air as we were reunited . We were soon on the coach

All aboard for Bauska.

which was to be the choirs transport for the weekend and heading for Bauska where the choir would stay. This was the third time "Con Brio" have visited us so we wanted them to see a little more of our local district, and arranged for them to visit places of interest in Vecumnieki which is the center of our area.

Klingeris.

And coffee

Eleven o'clock  we started our tour with coffee and klingeris ( a Latvian celebration cake) difficult to describe  and is a taste of Latvia that can only be appreciated by eating it, large slices were enjoyed by all and the remainder returned to it's box and put aboard the coach for consumption later.

Each carving has a story to tell.

And each building means something special.

Years of work have gone into making this a very special place
and it is all for charity.

 It was
 then off to visit an interesting garden full of structures built by the owner each with a special idea in mind, many of them expressing his belief. There is a small chapel, licensed for weddings,, and the choir sang an impromptu  "Gabriel's Trumpet".there

Hearing of Vecumnieki church history.

 It was at this point it started to rain so quickly back on to the coach and on to Vecumnieki Lutheran church where 2 ladies  had come to tell us about it.'s history.
We have many people who grow flowers to supplement there incomes and we visited a man who grows dahlia's not best viewed in the rain but he showed us round where there were blooms from a just a couple of inches across to flowers as big as tea plates with so many colours.everyone was amazed at how beautiful the blooms were. The last place we had lined up was the local museum which is housed in an old school and was at one time a very grand building. Here we were treated to stories about local people who have played a big part in Latvia's history. it was a very interesting  time,
We returned to Stelpe where the choir enjoyed a late lunch, cooked by the school dinner ladies, it was extremely tasty and appreciated by all after such a busy morning.

Our own very special Stelpe ladies singing group.

And so the concert began

The cello ensemble from Riga

All singing and playing a very popular Latvian song.

The highlight of the day of course was the concert and despite of the uncertain weather a good crowd assembled. The choir excelled themselves singing popular songs both old and new, one of which the audience demanded an encore. The choir were joined by a cello ensemble from Riga and our own ladies group from Stelpe.and it all ended with everyone singing  "Ai jel manu vieglu pratu"  which surprised a lot of people as the ''Con Brio choir sang it in Latvian, No one went home disappointed and a good time was had by all.
Sunday was a more relaxed day, the choir and friends joined us for an alfresco lunch in the garden
at our home,

Time to relax

Inside or out it's good to chat.

Well now that was a surprise 

Foods on it's way

"Con Brio" and friends.

 before heading for                                                                                                                            

,Valle church.

A completely different venue from Stelpe.

Valle ladies choir.

Valle and their second concert,this time held in the church, they were joined here by Valle ladies choir, and afterwards enjoyed some lovely refreshments with a chance to meet and chat with new friends before leaving for their hotel in Riga.
All to soon their time with us was over, so sad to say goodbye but taking lots of happy memories of people they met and places they visited.

A strange but interesting day.

As we headed for Riga there was something missing, something was different.The road was so familiar, but there were no storks in the fields, yet that wasn't it. The laughter was there,the greeting of friend meeting friend was there, but what was missing, and then it came to me the seat next to me was empty,Valerie wasn't there.
It began  three or four weeks ago when I was asked if we wanted to go on a trip to Riga and naturally I said yes. The visit planned was to visit an art gallery, a library and a garden and as the first two are not particularly high priority for Valerie she declined the opportunity, hence I found myself alone but surrounded by friends a most unusual and strange experience I must say.
So how did the day pan out, with this void beside me?

Latvia's National Art Gallery, the buildings are reflected from
across the road.

A very grand entrance to a wonderful collection

One of two grand stair cases

No modern gallery would be without a glass floor.

Lost in my own little world (where I'm told I spend a good deal of my time these days) the journey to Riga was quite uneventful, as it was quite early we were able to park just a short walk from the "Nacionalais Makslas Muzeis " the (National Museum of Art) only to find we were too early the doors wouldn't open until 9 oclock so we had 15 minutes to spare.


 Right on time the bolts were drawn and we were the first visitors of the day, our guide was ready and waiting for us and she spoke excellent english, rather than go round with the group I asked how long the tour would be and set off to wander around the galleries at my own pace. The building has just undergone extensive restoration and building works which include a vast underground gallery and storage area and houses over 52000 works of art.the majority of which are by Latvian artists the greatest of which is Janis Rosentals.

There was even a rooftop promenade 

As it was an art gallery I thought I would try an
'arty shot'

How do they polish that dome?. Riga's orthodox cathedral
Just across the park.

Built in 1905 the timber in the cupola is the original
there are some tremendous shakes in the wood but
it still stands secure a testament to the builders.

A painting that looks like a picture, my kind of art.

By Janis Rosentals

another by Rosentals

Deep in the basement where the collection is stored and it
also opens out into a large gallery , very impressive.

After some 2 hours we left the Gallery to head across the city and river to visit the National Library. This is again a new building and in complete contrast to the one we had just left. Opened in 2014 it houses over 6 million items.

Books books and more books!!

Is this the entrance? It looks more like the entrance to
 Darth Vader's lair.

Looking down through the atrium from the 8th floor.

From the 11th floor, that's our coach down there. 

Shortly before opening a human chain was formed from the old building to the new and thousands of books were handed from person to person to transfer much of the libraries collection, Like most modern buildings in old cities (the shard or gherkin in London ) the new library is not without its critics. But judge for yourselves. Again I obtained a pass that would allow me access to all areas,  I found a nice restaurant and had a spot of lunch as you do and then  wandered round at my own pace, meeting up with our party just as they were about to go to the11th floor which access is only allowed with a tour guide.
It was raining extremely hard when we reached it so the view was pretty dismal.

Now those windows are dirty,  

The last visit of the day was to the National Botanical Gardens, which was more my cup of tea, again our guides were waiting for us and we set off. First stop was the palm house followed by a temperate greenhouse and cactus house and then back out to walk round the gardens.

Heading for the palm house

Pelargoniums, 

 I spotted a show of Brugmansia we have two here in Upes Iela, so asked our guide how best to look after them through the winter, "don't ask me I'm not a gardener" he replied so I found a nice member of staff who spoke a little english who supplied me with the answers.

Brugmansia

Then all to soon it was back on the bus and after the obligatory stop at Maxima supermarket we arrived home about 8 oclock. Quite early for a Stelpe outing!! and back to filling the 'emptiness' that I had had by my side all day. [coming home to  Valerie again].

Ali Baba's water butt.